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Coffee Processing in the home by James Drinnan, DPI & F

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Although there are several coffee species, most coffee is made from the seed or bean of either Coffea arabica (Arabica coffee) or Coffea canephora (Robusta coffee). Arabica trees normally produce berries 8 to 15 mm in diameter, and Robusta produces berries approximately 10 mm in diameter. Commercially, Robusta is regarded as inferior to Arabica coffee and is used mainly as a filler in instant coffee blends. Coffee berries are picked when they ripen to a bright deep red colour although there are a few cultivars which ripen to a deep yellow colour. The coffee or ‘green bean’ lies within the fruit and is surrounded by the parchment membrane, pulp or mucilage and outer skin. Coffee processing in the home is very time consuming. Small scale processing equipment is now available in Australia. Equipment is also available from the United Kingdom, at considerable expense. Processing involves six main steps:
Pulping  This step involves removing the skin and pulp, and should be carried out as soon as possible after harvesting, certainly within 24 hours. It is necessary to remove all green unripe, and black overripe dry berries, before pulping as these will reduce the quality of the coffee. Two home methods can be used for pulping. One is to squeeze each individual berry by hand, and the other is to use a piece of wood to tamp the berries in a bucket until all seeds have been forced out from the skin. After this operation fill the bucket with water and stir the skins and seeds. Pour away the skins before they settle. Repeat this process to remove all the skins and pulp and any coffee beans that float. Good coffee beans will not float in water. Remove by hand any remaining skins or un-pulped coffee berries.

Fermentation
Fermentation by natural enzymes breaks down the insoluble mucilage around the parchment layer, that is, the slippery layer you can feel with your fingers. Place the coffee beans in a plastic bucket to avoid the effects iron has on quality and add water to the beans. Fermentation may be complete in 18 to 48 hours, depending on the surrounding temperature. To check whether the fermentation phase is complete, gently wash a handful of the beans. If they come clean and feel gritty (not slippery), then adequate fermentation has been achieved and the beans can be washed. Wash in agitated water and drain. Repeat this process until the water becomes clear. This normally takes approximately three washes. To strain off the water, use a colander or some fine, net-like material such as an onion bag, as this will prevent the loss of beans. During the washing process any floating beans should be discarded.

Drying
Coffee beans must be dried before the parchment can be removed and beans roasted. The simplest method of drying is sun drying. Avoid very intense sunlight when the coffee is wet as the beans may split. Physical aids such as wire drying racks or other fine mesh supports allow for the flow of air and enhance drying. The beans should be spread out in a thin layer no more than 3 cm thick, stirred three times a day, and be protected from rainy weather. Drying in this way can take from 5 to 30 days, depending on the seasonal weather pattern. Alternatively, a home food dehydrator can be used. This equipment uses electric heating elements to control drying. Only dehydrators with variable temperature controls are suitable as drying temperature must be kept at 40oc for the entire drying period. As with sun drying, beans must be stirred three times a day. Drying in this manner can be completed in several days and there is no risk of the beans being harmed by the weather. Whichever method of drying is used, the parchment on the coffee bean will dry to a pale straw colour, and be brittle to touch. At this stage, test the dryness of the beans by removing the parchment by hand off several coffee beans; if dry the bean inside should be greyish blue in colour, hard, likely to break when bitten between the teeth, and not soft and chewy. If soft, continue the drying process. Inadequate drying, that is, greater than 12% moisture, will cause mouldiness and stale aroma during storage. After correct drying, store for at least a fortnight in cans, jars or heavy gauze bags. This is to allow moisture to distribute evenly throughout the coffee beans. For longer term storage before parchment removal, air tight containers are recommended.

Parchment removal (Hulling)
Before roasting, the thin tough parchment layer must be removed from the beans. Place the beans, a small quantity at a time, in a food processor or similar type of blender. Plastic blades should be used to avoid breaking the coffee beans. Blend at low speed for approximately 30 seconds to remove the parchment from the beans. Then use a hair dryer or similar piece of equipment to blow away the unwanted lighter parchment from the beans. The very thin membrane which may remain on the green bean is the silver skin. It is not considered necessary to remove this before, or after, roasting. However, it may detract from the visual appearance of the roasted beans and can be removed by gently rubbing the beans following roasting. At this stage the coffee can be stored in sealed jars for roasting as required.

Roasting
The green coffee beans must be roasted to develop the typical coffee aroma and flavour. During roasting, several changes occur to the beans. These include loss of moisture, caramelisation of sugars, change in colour and increase in size. Roast the beans in large baking dishes in the oven. Spread the beans thinly and stir frequently to prevent burning and to give an even roast. As a rough guide, a single layer of beans will roast in 12 minutes at 230-250oC, while beans at a depth of 25 mm may take 30 minutes at this temperature. After the coffee has been roasting for a short time, the colour of the beans changes to a yellowish brown which gradually deepens in colour as they cook. As the beans are heated they shrivel until half cooked, then swell, and begin to open out as they increase in size. The colour and flavour of the beans will be influenced by the length of roasting, for example, light brown beans (a light roast) will have a weaker flavour than brown/black beans (a dark roast). The extent to which you will roast the beans depends upon individual flavour preferences. Over-roasting gives a burnt flavour. Adequately roasted beans should crack easily between the fingers. Once roasted, remove the beans from the oven, spread thinly and cool as quickly as possible with a fan, or the beans will continue to cook from their own heat. Roasting can also be carried out in a fry pan or using a popcorn machine.

Grinding, storage and brewing  
The cooled coffee beans may then be ground in a blender to the desired extent. This is determined by the type of brewing extraction to be used. The finer the grind the greater the extraction of the flavour when the coffee is brewed. For example:

Expresso – very fine Percolator – fine Filter coffee (dripolator) – fine to medium

Pot infusion (plunger) – medium to coarse

Ground coffee goes stale rapidly and loses flavour probably due to oxidation of certain oils. Packaging ground coffee in air tight containers and holding in the refrigerator will help to reduce flavour loss. However, the best quality brew is obtained when using freshly ground beans. It is recommended to store roasted beans in an air tight container in the refrigerator and grind the required amount just before use. The most important aspect of brewing is not to let coffee stand once brewing is complete. Over brewing destroys the flavour. The water need not be boiling, but just off the boil. When using plunger coffee makers (pot infusion), brew coffee for 3 to 5 minutes before drinking. Coffee made by filtration using dripolators should be served once the cycle is complete. Residual coffee should not be left sitting on the hot plate as over brewing will result and destroy the best flavour. Percolators by design tend to over brew coffee. Individual taste preferences may influence your selection of brewing method as well as roasting criteria.

Information contained in this publication is provided as general advice only. For application to specific circumstances, professional advice should be sought. The Department of Primary Industries and Fisheries, Queensland has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the information in this publication is accurate at the time of publication. Readers should ensure that they make appropriate inquiries to determine whether new information is available on the particular subject matter.    February 2004

Book Tips

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The following books on fruit can be read on the web.
The one by TK Lim is 900 pages and costs approx. $350 to buy so if you like any of these books, save them onto your computer as I find that sometimes they may not be there next time! Some of them you will need to click on each chapter to read but remember to save them. It may be a bit tedious to copy the URL into Google so just type in the name of the book & see if you find the URL to match. Sometimes you will only see certain pages so sometimes you need to know how many pages were in the original book and look further for another link. Sometimes you just click on the PDF icon.  There are literally dozens of books available on the web and below is a small selection.  Enjoy…  

Field Guide to the Pests, Beneficials, Diseases and Disorders of Mangoes (it’s also in our library)

http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Content/File/p/Fruit/Mango_Field_Guide.pdf  

Tropical Fruit Tree and other Exotic Foliage as Human Food 

http://fshs.org/proceedings-o/1968-vol-81/318-329%20(MORTON).pdf  

Manual of Tropical and Subtropical Fruits  http://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/72089#page/14/mode/1up

 

Wild Mangoes from Indonesia and Malaysia http://repository.wwf.org.my/technical_reports/W/WildMangiferaSpeciesInK…

 

Cacao:

http://books.google.com/books?id=_ol0KGWC-f4C&printsec=frontcover&source…
http://worldcocoafoundation.org/wp-content/files_mf/vos2003.pdf Cocoa Growing in Nth Qld  file:///F:/Downloads/13-114.pdf  84 page book from RIRDC.  

Edible Medicinal & Non-Medicinal Plants by TK Lim

http://file.zums.ac.ir/ebook/128-Edible%20Medicinal%20And%20Non%20Medici…  

Chest of Books. Click on Gardening then click on Find and type in fruit and scroll down. Amazing.

www.chestofbooks.com  

A Traveller’s Guide to the Durian Season. 

Mainly maps but click on the links for all the good info. Just remember that rain can change the season. http://gallery.mailchimp.com/5bdd943b7a13915c43809e080/files/A_Traveler_…  

Wild Edible Plants of Assam: http://assamforest.in/publication/wildEdible_plantsAssam.pdf

Annona Monograph   http://www.envirobase.info/PDF/R7187_Annona_monograph_revised.pdf

Fruits of Warm Climates by Julia Morton   http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/index.html

American Black Sapotes https://archive.org/details/cbarchive_48187_moreamericanblacksapotesnewd…

Lost Crop of the Incas http://books.nap.edu/openbook.php?record_id=11879&page=294

Lost Crops of Africa – Fruit  http://www.nap.edu/catalog.php?record_id=11879

Lost Crops of Africa – Vegetables  http://www.nap.edu/catalog.php?record_id=11763

Edible Leaves in Papua New Guinea    http://rfcarchives.org.au/Next/PeoplePlaces/EdibleLeavesPNG9-87.htm
   
Traditional Trees of Pacific Islands   http://www.traditionaltree.org/

Fruits of Vietnam  http://www.fao.org/docrep/008/ad523e/ad523e00.htm#Contents    

Fruit Trees and Useful Plants in Amazonian Life   http://www.fao.org/docrep/015/i2360e/i2360e.pdf

Bread from Stones  https://rockdustlocal.com/uploads/3/4/3/4/34349856/bread_from_stones.pdf

Databases; http://worldagroforestry.org/our_products/databases

Amaranth to Zai Holes    Saw this book in the South Australian Rarefruit Library and liked it.

http://web.archive.org/web/20071231171330/http://www.echotech.org/techni…
 

Sugar free Desserts

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Sugar-free Desserts contributed by Diane Moscheller from various authors over many years

Froyo
Combine 4 cups Greek yogurt, 1 cup frozen fruit of choice, 1 tab of honey. Push through a sieve to avoid icy chunks. Mix in food processor til well blended. Freeze a few hours. Ready to scoop!

Strawberry Icecream
500g strawberries, 2 medium bananas, 1 avocado, ¼ cup honey, ½ cup orange juice or 2 tabs tahina (for a creamier texture) Blend high speed. Pour into a container and freeze.

Vanilla Ice cream
4 small bananas, peeled, chopped and frozen, ½ cup soy or thick nut milk, 1 tspn vanilla, 1 tab tahina, ½-1 tab honey. Blend and freeze.

Banana and Caramel Ice cream
8 very ripe bananas (1.3g) Peel, thin slice. Freeze at least 6 hours. Remove from freezer, rest 5 mins. Place in food processor til smooth. At this point add 12 Medjool dates – pits removed.

Cashew Cream 1 cup cashews (best activated overnight in water in frig), ½ cup of water or orange juice, 1-2 tspns honey

Blend nuts and liquid as finely as possible. Add a little honey and nutmeg. Use as a topping for fruit.

Strawberry Jelly Soak 2 tabs agar flakes (from sea vegetables no sulphide) overnight in 1 cup of water or a minimum of 2 hours. Heat agar til boiling and simmer til flakes dissolve. Blend 500gms strawberries, 1 cup fresh apple juice, ¼-½ cup honey.

Combine strawberry mixture with agar and blend briefly. Pour into a mould and refrigerate til set.

Tofu Lemon Cream 400g tofu, ½ cup lemon juice, grated rind of two lemons, maple syrup to taste. Blend well & refrigerate. Note: You can omit the honey/ maple syrup in all these recipes. For a sugar replacement flavour cinnamon is ideal.

As these are all fresh they only have a limited shelf life so make and enjoy within days.

Worm Farming – by Jennifer Vickers

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My first and second attempts at a worm farm ended in disaster. After these failed attempts I was given instructions by a man who has worm farms as big as many people’s houses and I wondered how his information could translate to someone like me with one of those tiered black plastic contraptions. However, I did as he told me and though it doesn’t sound like much of a departure from what I’d already tried, it has really worked.

To begin with, all food scraps are wrapped in newspaper; he calls them “subs” and I make them long and slimish with two thicknesses of paper. He also told me to avoid too much citrus and egg shells – in fact he told me to avoid these altogether, but I couldn’t help myself.  He said to discard all the plastic tray tiers except one and to continue with this until the layer was filled (which took ages) and then I could add another tier. The subs are placed on one side of the tray along with horse manure – the quality of this is most important as the donors must not have been fed anti-biotics as it kills the worms stone dead.  My new worms were placed on the other side of the tray in a bit of the compost they’d been living in. The theory is that the worms know when the contents of the subs have decomposed to an acceptable state and then they crawl over and get stuck into it. The only other care I provided was to pour water over the top of the subs and the worms and kept the worm farm in a cool place (near my tank-stand actually in the shade) as worms cannot tolerate heat.  Make sure you leave the tap on “open” and provide a decent sized bucket at the bottom to catch the worm juice. I pour this over the subs each week adding extra water if I want more juice.

I use the juice diluted at the rate of one cup added to 2 litres of water for my African Violets, or anything else that is lucky enough. It has no odour.

I may add that I used to crumble the horse manure but have found that this is unnecessary as the worms are quite capable of dealing with the job and I just put it in, in chunks. Mind you, horse chunks are much smaller than cow chunks.

I don’t have a clue what sort of worms I have but I’m very happy to give anyone who is interested a little supply to get them started as they have been very, very easy worms to deal with. I live at Windsor and please bring an ice-cream bucket with holes in the lid with you. I have only one worm-farm but now all tiers of my farm are occupied though the farm didn’t bulk up until I started adding shredded paper. If you don’t want it to be a big job and just keep worms for the fun of it and to give you a use for your scraps and use the worm juice, I would suggest that you don’t bother about the shredded paper. Another tip he gave me is for catching the worms (if this proves a problem, which it doesn’t seem to be for me), and he said to get some well rotted potato peelings and put them on the top of the farm. He said the worms absolutely rush to the peelings, form a worm knot and you can just pick the whole lot up easily.

Very easy little project and it is fun making subs and fun going down and lifting up a sub in the farm and see the tenants wriggling away in and under the little parcels.

Note from Sheryl:

If you don’t have a worm farm and don’t wish to expend money on one, I have just been reading an article in Grass Roots magazine – issue No. 183 where they use two of those 10 ltr white buckets that deli’s use that yoghurt comes in – lots of holes were drilled in the bottom of one and gauze placed over it to let the juice through. Follows Jennifer’s recipe of wrapping kitchen scraps in paper.

Coffee Beans – Processing your own – by Peter van Velzen

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Here goes….mind you I am not an expert, just an informed amateur.

Green bean can be kept with little trouble or preparation for years. In fact, the green bean, like wine, changes with age and becomes more complex as it ages! This is not the case for roasted beans. Whole roasted beans will deteriorate noticeably within two weeks irrespective of how they are stored. There is much debate over how to store roasted beans: we don’t, so we don’t have a storage problem. Ground roasted beans will start to deteriorate noticeably within a day! In days gone by, every country house would roast their own beans on a daily basis with small hand cranked wood fired roasters. Small urban roasters operated in urban areas to service neighbourhoods. It was only for the second world war that mass produced instant coffee was prepared

to keep the troops happy. This led to the decline in the standard of coffee as a drink overall.

There is a whole story in itself on the roasting side of the preparation. First crack, second crack and where to stop the roast. Cinnamon, City or Viennese are the names of these roasts. Then there is blending or not, and the differences in taste between the beans themselves….perhaps not this article. We roast our own with a lovely machine that allows you to see the beans darkening and to hear the cracks of the beans to determine the stage of roast. Lots of fun and you can experiment and blend and vary the roasts and get very technical and

really impress your guests as you demonstrate the “art” of roasting. It certainly is a talking point.

Once roasted we tip the beans into our grinder and only grind as we need to. The grinder has a hopper on top and a “dosser” to drop a measured amount into the cup/strainer in the handle of the group head (the heated mass of metal that the handle attaches to). At this stage the important issue is to get a consistent measure of coffee into the cup/strainer so that the rate at which heated water (at 95 degrees C) passes through the group head is perfect. The resistance to the pressure of the water should be such that in less than 30 seconds you get 30ml of expressed coffee. Sounds easy you say…..well it can be once everything is set up, here are some of the things that affect the porosity of the ground coffee: the bean type, roast, grind fineness, moisture content of the ground coffee, amount of ground coffee in the cup/strainer, the pressure at which the coffee is pressed into the cup/strainer, the pressure of the heated water that passes through the handle, the type of strainer etc. The main aim is consistency so you should try to keep as much constant as possible and vary just a few of the variables so that you get a consistent 30ml in 30 seconds. We adjust the fineness of the grind (easily adjusted on a good grinder) and keep everything else constant, that is until we decide I want to try some different roasts. We stopped using a double spout handle because it was so different to the single spout handle (quantity of coffee in the cup/strainer and the resistance of the sieve itself) that we needed two different grind sizes….a

pity but we get consistent coffee doing it the way we do.

Finally, the milk should be heated to no more than 60 degrees otherwise it gets scalded and it tastes well …scalded. We use a thermometer, but at a pinch we could use our finger on the metal jug as we heat it up.

Thermometers are cheap and easy to use.

We have invested in a manual coffee espresso machine that is robust, does NOT use a thermo block heating element and has a good steam and separate hot water (95 degrees ) outlet for tea or heating our cups. From our research and experience, fully automatic machines are a good way to show off to your friends that you have no

idea about good coffee; manual machines are the way to go.

We love our coffee. We grow it, pick it, pulp it, dry it, hull it, roast it, grind it, express it and finally drink it. It is a journey and like all good journeys it is about the experience, but after all this experience it is nice to

relax with a great coffee.

Sheryl: I was recently visiting Peter and Ann and got to taste their home made coffee. There is a difference – a huge difference so give some serious thought to giving the process a go.

Peter makes the best coffee I have ever tasted so I asked him to write something up for us.

Plant Breeders Rights by Bernadette Hawkins PhD MIP

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Plant breeder’s rights (PBR) are a form of intellectual property for protection of new plant varieties.  Protection is not automatic; in order to obtain protection of a plant variety it is necessary to register the variety with the PBR Office.  The registration process can take 2-3 years and goes beyond the scope of this article, however, I would be happy to discuss it with any interested members of the Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Qld. Inc. (STFCQI).

Over the past year there have been concerns expressed during meetings of the STFCQI that PBR have a negative impact on the activities of members.  At the outset, I stress that this is an urban myth, and the purpose of this article is to provide general information about PBR so that members can see that it should not impinge on their activities and that there may in fact be some members who could utilise the scheme.

The aim of PBR is to encourage the development of new varieties of plants for Australia’s domestic industries and for export.  PBR are intended to provide a balance between providing plant breeders with an opportunity to obtain a reward for producing a new plant variety, and providing the benefits to growers and society through access to new and improved plant varieties.

Protection can be obtained for all species including fungi and algae, but to be eligible for protection, the variety must satisfy a number of criteria relating to characteristics and suitability for propagation: • have a breeder (that is, it cannot be a naturally occurring variety) • distinctiveness (the variety must be clearly distinguishable from other known varieties) • uniformity (with respect to the relevant characteristics which make it a distinguishable variety – limited variation is allowable, there does not have to be total or absolute uniformity) • stability (relevant characteristics remain unchanged after repeated propagation)

• the variety must not have been exploited (in the commercial sense), or exploited only recently (specific time periods apply dependent on the species)

The maximum duration of PBR is 20 years (25 years for trees and vines), subject to payment of an annual fee.  Once the PBR has expired (at the end of the 20 or 25 year term, or if the annual fee has not been paid), the variety can be freely used by the public.

PBR provides the breeder with the right to exclude others from using the propagating material (including seed, cuttings, grafting stock) of a registered variety for a range of commercial activities (including production, reproduction, sale, import, export) and from misusing the variety name.  In other words, all propagating material is protected under PBR, not just the plant itself.

However, importantly for STFCQI members there are exemptions to the protection afforded a breeder.  Specifically, protected varieties can be used without permission of the PBR owner where that use is: (a) private; (b) for non-commercial purposes; (c) for experimentation; or (d) as a starting point to breed other varieties.

For example, if you were to purchase a fruit protected by PBR from your local green-grocer, you could save any seeds, plant them and produce a tree for your own private, non-commercial use.  However, you could not sell the seeds, the tree or any propagating material.

Some members may also be pleased to know that propagating material harvested from a legitimately obtained protected plant variety can be saved for further plantings (farm-saved seed exemption).  However the harvested material from such further plantings cannot be sold commercially. Thus, PBR should not be seen as inhibiting the activities of STFCQI members, particularly those members not engaged in commercial activities relating to propagation of plants.  For those members who are engaged in commercial activities relating to propagating plants, consider embracing the PBR system, it may work to your advantage!

(Bernadette, a STFCQI member, is a Patent Attorney and keen fruit devourer – Russell)
 

Website Copyright and Disclaimer

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This website and its content is copyright of the Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Qld Inc. unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved.

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You may not, except with our express written permission, distribute or commercially exploit the content. Nor may you transmit it or store it in any other website or other form of electronic retrieval system.

Disclaimer

The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by the Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Qld Inc. and while we endeavour to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.

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Through this website you are able to link to other websites which are not under the control of the Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Qld Inc. We have no control over the nature, content and availability of those sites. The inclusion of any links does not necessarily imply a recommendation or endorse the views expressed within them.

Every effort is made to keep the website up and running smoothly. However, the Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Qld Inc. takes no responsibility for, and will not be liable for, the website being temporarily unavailable due to technical issues irrespective of the reason.

Pitaya

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Simple Dragon Fruit Ice Cream    ref: Raymond Patterson – Pitaya yahoogroup 2 cups dragon fruit 2 cups half and half (half light cream and half milk) 1 cup sugar

I’ve experimented with other sweeteners to cut down sugar level, so far the only working alternative I’ve found is agave nectar, as the cactus sweetener seems compatible with the dragon fruit.

Pashionate Dragon Ice Cream   ref:  llnickers – Pitaya yahoogroup Warm 1 cup milk in a small saucepan.Whisk 2 eggs with ½ cup sugar in a separate bowl. Slowly add the warm milk to egg mixture continuing to whisk. Pour mixture back into the pan and heat slowly until thickened, stirring constantly. DO NOT BOIL. Let cool to room temperature Add 2 cups of cream or half cream/half milk plus 2tsp vanilla and chill overnight. Put in a 1 quart ice cream maker and follow manufacturer’s instructions.

Add 1- ½ cups peeled dragon fruit cut into ½” cubes dragon fruit chunks and ½ cup passionfruit (strain out some of the seeds) just before the end of the freezing process – or ¼ cup lemon juice can be substituted for passion fruit.  Makes about 1 litre.  Yum!

Dragon Fruit Ice Cream using Coconut Milk Cut your dragon fruit in half, use a spoon and remove all the fruit and process in a food processor.

Combine 1 can full fat coconut milk (475ml), 3 egg yolks, 1 tsp vanilla and a pinch of sea salt in a sauce pan over medium heat. Bring to a mild boil constantly whisking. Remove from heat and let cool. Add your dragon fruit to your cooled coconut milk mixture. Once mixed, place in your refrigerator to cool, for at least 2 hours but you can leave it overnight. Remove from the fridge and immediately use in your ice cream maker after you mix it slightly to ensure nothing settled. This ice cream will not turn into a brick like most coconut milk ice cream. Enjoy once it is done. Live on the edge a little and serve in the shell of the fruit. Enjoy.  Ref:  http://civilizedcavemancooking.com/recipes/desserts/dragon-fruit-ice-cre…

Avocado

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  • Avocado Cheesecake    by Judy Allen    based on a recipe by Carol McCabe Base:  Crush 1 pkt Gingernut Biscuits and 125 gms melted butter. Pour into container and chill. Mix together: 1 ripe Avocado, 1 tin Condensed milk, ½ tsp gelatine dissolved in ¼ cut warmed lemon juice, 375gms Philly cheese, a couple of drops of Peppermint essence complements the green colouring of the filling and the gingernut base.
  • Avocado Cheesecake     by Judy Allen Base:  Crush 1 pkt Gingernut Biscuits and 125 gms melted butter. Pour into container and chill. Mix together: 1 ripe Avocado, 1 tin Condensed milk, ½ tsp gelatine dissolved in ¼ cut warmed lemon juice, 375 Philly cheese, a couple of drops of Peppermint essence complements the green colouring of the filling and the gingernut base.
  • Avocado Ice Cream with Mango Combine 500ml coconut milk, 2 avocados, 60ml honey, 10ml vanilla bean extract into a blender and blend until smooth then pour into an ice cream machine. Churn until frozen. Combine 4 diced mangos and ½ bunch of chopped mint and arrange onto plates, then spoon passionfruit over the diced mango and serve with a large scoop of the avocado ice cream. Garnish with mint. If storing the ice cream for more than 2 days, add 30ml of glucose syrup to prevent the ice cream from hardening.
  • Avocado Ice Cream Blend 6 Avocados, 2 cups milk, 5 tbsp sugar and juice from half a lemon. Add 1 cup heavy whipped cream and put in the freezer or ice cream maker.   You can also make a dessert made by processing avocado, orange concentrate and honey. In a food processor Mix: 2 medium avocados, ½ cup orange concentrate, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 2 tablespoons honey and 2-3 tablespoons Labane which is a cream cheese made of yoghurt but you could substitute sour cream or any milk product of this kind. You may use this cream to fill half avocados, papayas, pastry or just as it is.  Bon appetite  UdiA member tried it and said it was delicious.  They just used avocado, fresh orange juice, and honey. It was good even without the other ingredients and found that if they added the orange juice pulp it was even tastier!
     
  • Blend Avocado with any good-tasting annona flesh and add a slurp of lime juice – serve chilled. Ref:  Pat

Abiu Tips

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  • John Hatch grows Abiu very successfully in full sun at Glasshouse Mountains and got one of his original trees off Sippy Orchards. The fruit usually weigh around 700gms. He only has seedling trees but he says you need two for good pollination. Other requirements are no westerly winds and no frost. His trees get a little pink wax scale and negra scale plus fruit fly.
     
  • Bruce Chadfield lost his grafted trees but has 2 very healthy 3 year old seedling trees growing in the sun.
     
  • Richard Poli   I had one and it died – bought some fruit when last in Cairns and raised the seeds – they germinated well and I planted them out but only one survived and even that is somewhat sick.  Next door planted one beside his dam several years ago.  It flourished and was about 2 mtrs+ high, then this year I suspect with the dry weather it too has died so I dare say if they are going to survive down here they are going to need plenty of mulch and water.
     
  • Dennis Coulter I planted one in 1994.  No fruit until either at a Field day or in the newsletter someone said you had to have two.  I planted a second one in 1998 or 2000, can’t remember unless I look up my records.  Anyway, both trees fruited for the first time this year and I picked one off the youngest tree and two or three off the elder one.  I am waiting with baited breath for the next crop, they were beautiful.  One had fruit fly a bit, which is not bad since I never get any fejoias without fruit fly.  Both trees are only about 7 feet high, the older one is slightly more bushy than the younger.  Could be soil or climate problem.  I gave both blood and bone and dynamic lifter plus for a number of years, but nothing much in the last 12 months because of the lack of rain.
     
  • Bill Tunstall  I have bought a number of specimens over the years, several being grafted trees, but lost them even though I mollycoddled them.  Later I planted some seedlings and two of them have grown to about 4 metres in height.  Both have flowered and are in close vicinity of each other but I have only had very few fruit from them.  They would be about 6 – 8 years old. About three year ago I planted more seeds which I brought back from North Queensland.  They sprouted well in the pots and then I planted them out. Now they are about 2 metres high, quite bushy and have flowered once without fruiting.  They are very healthy looking trees and I intend to keep them fairly low.  I know that they are quite susceptible to chemicals and tried to feed them mostly with organic fertilizer.  I have had a little trouble with scale and mealy bug, but at the moment they look reasonably clean. What I would like to know is how to get them to set fruit, and also what is a good fertilizing scheme for them.
     
  • John Coffey Although I do not confess to being a dedicated gardener following all the rules and correct care guidelines, all my fruit trees do flower and fruit well except one. That one is the Abiu. The tree I have is approx 12 years old, purchased from a nursery that I have purchased all my trees from and grows well. However all that has ever happened is the tree bursting into flower every year but failing to set any fruit at all. I live in Moorooka where there is primarily clay base but the garden is regularly mulched, fertilised, watered and has good drainage etc. Over the years I have tried -more then less fertiliser, lots of water, minimal water, pruning hard then letting it go wild. I do tend to keep it to a height of 3mts. Nothing seems to help me get even one fruit to develop.
     
  • Aubrey Blankley found this article in the Courier-mail under Garden and Outdoor living show on (Growing exotic fruit trees is worth a try) dated September 1, 1993 and thought it might be of interest to you. This is a beautiful fruit and I first tasted it at Nambour so I know it grows that far south. It is a native to Brazil and Peru and the fruit is shaped a little like a persimmon. The tree is a small evergreen, growing to around 5m to 8m tall, and it prefers a tropical and sub-tropical climate. It will not tolerate frost. Abiu should be given regular applications of fertiliser at the same rate and quantity as for citrus trees. Regular application of poultry manure fertiliser can be used instead if preferred. Little or no pruning is required Regular mulching is also important. The fruit will be ready for harvest between January and September, depending on the variety or location.  Some trees can have up to three crops during this period. The fruit should be fully ripe before eating as it contains unpleasant milky latex just under the skin and this can stick to the mouth and lips. It is best to wait till the fruit drops to the ground so you know it is fully mature and can be eaten safely”
     
  • Luc   I am letting them go several days longer on the tree then roll them in my hands with a little pressure and let sit another day or 2 at room temp. refrigerate for a few hours, spoon out – didn’t notice any latex.