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Apple

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Apple Slice    by Yvonne O’Neill
Preheat oven to 180ºC. Line the base and sides of a 30x20cm slice tin with baking paper making sure the paper extends up the sides of the tin. Combine 1 x 340gm packet butter cake mix with 100gms of melted butter & press into prepared tin. (Do not follow instructions on the cake mix packet.)
Bake about 15 mins or until lightly browned. Remove from oven but leave oven on.
Cool base slightly then spread 1 x 425gm can pie apples over base.
Beat 1 x 300-400 tub of sour cream, 2 lightly beaten eggs until smooth. Optional: 2 tbsp grated lemon zest.
Pour mixture over apples and bake 30 mins or until topping has set. Sprinkle with cinnamon.
Allow to cool then refrigerate until cold and cut into squares.
Variations:  Add ½ cup sultanas or 1 cup desiccated coconut to the cake mix along with 25gms extra butter

Lumberjack Cake
Combine 2 medium apples, 185gms dates, 1tsp bi-carb of soda, and 1 cup boiling water – cool til lukewarm.
Cream 125gms butter and 1 cup sugar
Add 1 egg and 1 tsp vanilla
Sift 1 ½ cups plain flour and ½ tsp salt and beat in alternatively with fruit mixture.
Use deep paper lined square tin.
Bake 1 hour 10 mins.
Topping
Combine in a saucepan 60gms butter, ½ cup packed brown sugar, 1/3 cup milk and 60gms coconut.
Stir over low heat until butter and sugar have melted then pour over cake and cook a further 20 mins.

Apple Cake
Beat 115gms butter and 85gms sugar then add 225gms SR flour
Add 225gms peeled, cored & chopped cooking apples & work together into a soft dough with a little milk and form into a round flat cake about a 3cm thick.
Bake on a greased tin in a moderately hot oven for about 20 mins.
Try it hot!

Visiting Ian Graham – Persimmon and Brussel Sprout Grower

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Sheryl: I was invited to attend the Persimmon Growers annual meeting and below is the write-up which hopefully will be continued…just need to locate the other cassette tape!
Ian Initially I set up here in 1984 and put the first fruit on the market in 1988. I just had a small block of Fuyus down by the creek – pity we didn’t get the same returns now as what we got then because I can remember averaging $14.00 per tray in the early 90’s. I think I got $2-4 a tray in 1988 until the agent I had in Sydney which I’ve still got, developed basically his Korean clientele which we’re still servicing. I planted about 1500 Fuyu and they’ve been gone for some time – I haven’t got any Fuyu on the place so that’s what I think of them! And that’s what the agent thought of them! Now it’s all Jiros except for 440 Izu and the thing they do is act as a trap crop for the Fruit Fly, the Clear Wing Moth and the flood! We had 3 metres of water down the bottom of the property. I spent a bit of time thinking whether I’d stand the trellises up or come in with a bull dozer and get rid of the rest of them but I decided to stand them up but if another flood washes them over, that’s where they’ll stay! The Jiros in this block were planted in 1998 – dryland although once I irrigated them by running spray lines through when they were 4 or 5 years old and they had a crop on them. I think we’ve had one season where I think we lost out badly because they were dryland. Rainfall is around 40-45 inches although we have the odd year where we get 90 inches but by mulching and keeping our weeds under control, the only thing that worries me now is that if we don’t get rain in the next month or so, it means I can’t spray with the orchard blaster because the mulch hasn’t settled down and it’s still dry but I’ve never been caught for too long. The other issue is that fertiliser has gone on and we’ve had no rain since but my idea with Persimmons is not to fertilise them very much and we only fertilise every 2nd year with about 400kg per hectare of Nitrophoska plus this year we put on Gypsum but my idea of keeping nitrogen levels down is to get calcium up. We’re finding with all the crops we grow there’s a direct correlation between nitrogen and calcium. Nitrogen down; calcium up. We’ve got Brussels Sprouts over there now and we haven’t put any calcium on at all this year and 10 years ago we were pouring calcium on and the only difference is that we’ve dropped our nitrogen level and dropped their vigour obviously but there’s a balance there somewhere.
Sheryl: Why don’t you irrigate?
Ian: I simply refuse to water young trees. Let their root system develop. Under that system, those young trees will have roots out into the roadway already. Let them fight their way! We’ve replaced 6 trees in the whole block and I don’t think it would have been lack of water. Under dryland farming, they’ve cropped heavily every year since 2002. There’s always a difference in butt size – whether it’s a rootstock issue or a graft issue or incompatibility issue – I’m not too sure.
Member: How are you going with Clear Wing Moth:
Ian: It’s only in the last couple of years that they seem to have started worrying some of the Jiros. This is only the 2nd year that we have painted the big cuts after we’ve applied about 4mls per litre of Lorsban. It’s specific to the big cuts because that’s where you get all your water shoots from and we seem to be getting pretty good control. We ‘re not to the stage yet where we are with the Izu where we go back through them in January and try and scratch out all the moths out plus all the rest of the grubs out. Sometimes you’ll see Clear Wing Moth in all the prunings. We throw out the prunings in the centre and just run over them with the 5 foot slasher – even the fairly big bits of timber so I don’t think too many grubs would survive that. I’d prefer to buy a mulcher but you can’t buy a narrow mulcher that is heavy duty enough.
Member: Are you using any Pheromones?
Ian: I haven’t used Pheromones for years. We used them when we had the Fuyu. With Fruit Fly we do use Amulets at double the rate.
Member: How much growth are you getting out of them by the end of summer?
Ian: Not above the crossbar. Sometimes when we do the thinning and you have four people doing the thinning, next time you come over and check to see what they are doing, there’ll be none left! It’s all or none! We do fudge it and leave it there.. We do get a bit of hail here occasionally. We still get colour in our fruit, lessen our sunburn during the sizing up period where the laterals are hanging out and they drop and expose fruit that hasn’t been exposed to the sun – we can get 39ºC. Rows run more or less north south. I didn’t buy the block specifically to grow Persimmon but slope lined up beautifully for big long rows. I have to stay awake at night when spraying as it’s 3.6km an hour. Lorikeets are a bit of an issue. I use to have Lychees and Mangoes and that’s when we did have some problems so basically I solved the problem by getting rid of other fruit crops around that attracted them. Only had a problem with Flying Fox one year but you’ll notice there are no large trees around, no eucalypts and there was a purpose in doing that because Flying Fox will perch up in the big trees but with Persimmons they can’t rip them off. I think there is a camp up in the forest but I think the only ones we get are the old ones that can’t be bothered going too far. One year when it was very showery for weeks on end we seemed to have a bit of a build up of numbers. I got one quote for $150,000 and couldn’t really see that I wouldn’t have been better off in putting it into a house in town.
Sheryl: In a recent article in the Victorian Weekly Times, Robert Blair a farmer from Idaho USA uses a UAV (Unmanned Aerial Vehicle) to combat wildlife damage in his crops. His UAE also takes photographic images of his fields & looks to have a wingspan of over 2 metres.
http://www.weeklytimesnow.com.au/article/2012/09/17/536981_latest-news.html
Member: You still have some Izu. Do you think it would be an advantage to get rid of them?
Ian: I’ve thought about it but it provides a couple of weeks of extremely high prices mid to late February where if you have someone employed full time, it gives them a little bit of work but once you’ve got your Jiros, the agent doesn’t want your Izu which is understandable. I’m not sure how long I’ll be in Persimmons but the trees still have life in them – we’re getting pretty large fruit and we’re averaging around size 15-16 most years. The year before we had huge fruit and I used 800 flex trays size 10 out of a crop of 6500 and we hardly packed a 16 – 10, 13 and 15. We thin these trees to about 140 fruit and spread evenly over the tree and we’d prune about 70% – 80% of the canopy. They don’t seem to do a real significant fruit drop of their own. They do two drops and they’ll do a third after Christmas which you don’t want. It happens in cloudy overcast conditions. Interestingly enough half of this block has a row spacing of 4.25mtrs and over the other side the spacing is 3.8mtrs and the 3.8 side always drops more heavily than the 4.25 so it has to be a light issue.

Tamarillo – Solanum betaceum (syn. Cyphomandra betacea)

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Tamarillo, also known as the Tree Tomato, is a fast growing small tree that bears heavy crops of red or yellow sub-acid succulent fruit.  Blue-mauve flowers in Spring.  Fruit ripens Autumn/Winter and is ready to eat in Spring.  The fruit has many uses apart from being eaten fresh, such as being cooked in any way tomatoes would be cooked.  Tamarillo chutney and jam is a taste treat.  The yellow fruiting variety is usually milder and sweeter with slightly smaller fruit. Tamarillos are very quick growing and will crop in 18 months reaching a height of 2-3 metres.  They require well-drained soil and protection from wind and frost.   Ref: http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s328653.htm, 
Even when it’s not fruiting, the Tamarillo, or Tree Tomato, makes an attractive foliage specimen tree, growing to 3-4m.  Originally from tropical South America, it thrives from the subtropics right across southern Australia.  Easily raised from seed and sown in spring, it will grow about a metre in its first year and it will fruit 18 months after planting.  The tree will have a good fruit set in autumn if provided with a frost-free aspect, good drainage, a sunny position and an annual application of enriched potassium fertiliser.  It needs plenty of water to make up for rapid transpiration through its large leaves.  Give it a light prune each spring to encourage the production of fruit on the new growth of wood. One drawback is that the leaves and roots can harbour mites, scale and aphids over winter and infest other plants in the spring (and if not controlled can lead to the death of the host plant as well – Ed.), although the thick skin of the Tamarillo prevents damage to the fruit itself.  The use of a systemic insecticide spray after you’ve harvested the fruit should take care of this problem. The skin, which is quite tough, is easily removed by dipping the fruit in boiling water for 10-20 seconds.  Being slightly astringent the fresh fruit makes a tasty addition to fruit salad, or cook the skinned and halved fruit, sprinkled with sugar, in a shallow pan in a moderate oven for 30 minutes until soft.  Serve with cream.
In summary:
* Autumn fruits, frost-tender
* Subtropics through to southern Australia
* Pretty specimen tree

Papaw Growing in your backyard

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Papaya can be successfully grown in the backyard; you need full sun and a frost free site. Well drained soil is important, if the soil is shallow build a metre wide mound 400mm high to plant on. If seedlings are available at your local nursery use them, if not grow from seed until the seedlings are 200mm high. Use a good quality seedling mix and feed with a soluble fertiliser if the plants look a little yellow. Plant the seedlings on top of the formed mound and water in. The best time to plant is early spring, the plants will grow vigorously so limit the amount of nitrogen fertiliser applied, give just enough to keep the leaves green, excessive nitrogen will make the trees grow tall very quickly and the first fruit will be higher than desirable above ground level. If you have grown a dioecious variety, that is separate male and female trees, then plant 4 seedlings at each mound. As the males show cut them out at ground level, keeping 2 or 3 male trees in total for pollen. If you have grown a bisexual variety, that is bisexual trees (longer, thinner fruit) and female trees (rounder fruit), then plant 2 seedlings at each mound, either sex type will produce fruit. The bisexual trees will provide pollen for the females. Hand pollinate all females to ensure fruit set. Once the trees are flowering apply sulphate of potash at 2 grams/tree/week gradually increasing this amount to 20 grams/tree/week when harvesting has commenced. Sulphate of Potash will help grow large healthy flowers and fill the fruit out. The time from flowering to harvest will be around 6 months. Chook pellets are a good fertiliser to apply with the sulphate of potash, give each mound a handful every 2 weeks. The trees need to be well watered over summer when temperatures are high, up to 150 litres/mound/week. For the rest of the year water moderately and remember over-watering will encourage root disease. The worst pest you will encounter is the fruit spotting bug, a green/brown winged sap sucking insect up to 10 mm long. Remove these by hand before they cause damage.
Sheryl: Garry was a certified organic Papaya Seed producer and sold organic seed of both red and yellow fleshed papaya (in Australia yellow fleshed are called paw paw). but he has now sold the business.

Jujube

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The Chinese Date or Chinese Jujube  by Associate Professor Yan Guijun and A.R. Ferguson. Professor Guijun was previously with Mt Albert Research Centre in Auckland, NZ but is now Plant Production Systems Program Deputy Leader at University of Western Australia, Institute of Agriculture
 

Candied Chinese dates or ‘honey jujubes’ are commonly available in New Zealand supermarkets. They are the processed fruit of the Chinese date or jujube, Ziziphus zizyphus (L.) Karsten, which comes from China and has been cultivated there for more than 3,000 years. The Chinese date is one of the most important fruit crops in China, with an estimated 250,000 hectares of trees producing about 500,000 tonnes of fresh fruit annually. It is also cultivated in a number of other countries, particularly in areas with low rainfall. The fruit is eaten fresh or it is dried or processed.

The Genus Ziziphus
The Chinese date belongs to Ziziphus, a large genus in the family Rhamnaceae. The classification and nomenclature of the genus, like that of many other cultivated plants, is particularly confused. Linnaeus had placed the Chinese date in the genus Rhamnus, giving it the name R. zizyphus. Miller, in 1754, shifted the species to a new genus which he called Ziziphus, following the spelling first used by the pre-Linnaean botanist Tournefort, and this genus is still accepted today. Lamarck later adopted the spelling Zizyphus from the specific name as used by Linnaeus. This incorrect spelling has, until recently, been the more common; it seems clear, however, that the generic name should be spelled Ziziphus, since this was the first to be validly published. The generic name is probably based on the Greek name ‘zizyphon’ (which then became ‘zizyphus’ in classical Latin), although some authors derive it from ‘zizouf’, the Arabic for Z. lotus.

There are possibly 100 species in the genus Ziziphus, which is widespread through America, Africa, the Middle East, Europe, Asia, and Australia. A few species yield useful timber, but the main value of most is for their fruit. Two species are commercially important:

  • Ziziphus mauritiana Lam. (Z. jujuba Lam., non Miller) This is grown mainly in India, and is therefore often called the Indian jujube, although it is also grown in southern China and other south Asian countries. The most common Indian name is ‘ber’.
  • Ziziphus zizyphus (L.) Karsten (Rhamnus zizyphus L.; Z. jujuba Mill.;
  • Z. sativa Gaertn.; Z. vulgaris Lam.) This is most widely grown in China and is often given the name Chinese date or Chinese jujube. Its Chinese name is ‘zao’ (pronounced ‘tsao’) and this is usually included as part of Chinese cuItivar names. In older European texts it may be called the ‘common jujube’.

In most horticultural literature the Chinese date is referred to as Zizyphus jujuba Mill., but correction of the spelling of the generic name to that used by Miller means that the combination Ziziphus zizyphus (adopting the specific epithet zizyphus first used for the species by Linnaeus) is legitimate since it is not tautonymous, i.e., the two names are technically different, as they are speIled differently. To add to the confusion, the epithet ‘jujuba’ has also been used for the Indian jujube, and that plant often appears under the binomial Zizyphus jujuba Lam. (Lamarck being the first author to use this combination for that plant).

Deciding on the appropriate name to use is a question for expert nomenclaturists (see A. Rehder in Journal of the Arnold Arboretum 3, 1922, p. 220), but it seems that Ziziphus zizyphus is the name that should be used for the Chinese date. This name is becoming more accepted – e.g., see the Supplement (1988) to the 8th edition of W.J. Bean, Trees and Shrubs Hardy in the British Isles – but much of the older literature appears muddled as, unless botanical authorities are cited, it is often very hard to determine whether it is the Chinese date or the Indian jujube that is being described.

The Indian jujube or ber (Z. mauritiana) is a spreading tree with dark green pubescent leaves and yellow or green fruit which can have a red blush. The flowers are borne in autumn, and the fruits mature in winter or early spring. The tree is normally evergreen, but the leaves are sometimes lost during the summer dry period, not in winter. The Indian jujube is sensitive to frost, and it is therefore restricted to more tropical areas.

The Chinese date or Chinese jujube (Z. zizyphus) tends to be a more upright tree with bright green, glabrous leaves. The tree is deciduous, losing its leaves in winter; it flowers in the spring, and the fruits mature in autumn. It is resistant to winter cold, and can grow in cool temperate areas such as Korea and the north of China.

Fruits of several other Ziziphus species are collected for eating. Fruits of Z. lotus (L.) Lam., which occurs naturally in the Mediterranean area, are edible if not particularly palatable; these have been identified as the fruits eaten by Homer’s Lotophagi (lotus-eaters) of The Odyssey, engendering a dreamy forgetfulness. Z. spina-christi (L.) Desf., a small prickly tree likewise found around the Mediterranean and through the Middle East, is also valued for its fruit. It has been identified as one of the plants most likely to have provided Christ’s crown of thorns. Z. spinosa (Bunge) Hu, closely related to Z. zizyphus, is a bad weed in parts of China. Its fruits are harvested from the wild because they are very rich in vitamin C (usually more than 1000 mg per 100 g fresh weight) and the seed kernels have medicinal properties.

Common Names
The origin of the common name, ‘Chinese date’, is obvious. The fruit comes from China, and when dried or candied is often very reminiscent in size, shape, colour, and flavour of the fruit of the date palm (Phoenix dactylifera).

The older common name, jujube, is ultimately derived through French and Latin from the Greek ‘zizyphon’, likewise the origin of the generic name Ziziphus. From the Middle Ages onwards the name jujube was used for fruit of Ziziphus species growing in the countries bordering the Mediterranean. The fruit was used medicinally to soothe sore throats and as a remedy for coughs and, at one time, large quantities were imported into Britain from Provence and the Isles d’Hyres for this purpose. The name ‘jujube’ came to be used for lozenges made of gum arabic or gelatin and flavoured with, or in imitation of, this fruit. Eventually, by the middle of the nineteenth century, the connexion with the fruit was lost and ‘Jujube’ was used simply for any lozenge or soft sweet. This usage was still common twenty or thirty years ago.

Vegetative branching structure in Chinese date: permanent branch, secondary branch, fruiting mother branches, and fruiting branchlets (for clarity, the leaves and most fruiting branchlets are not shown; about one-quarter life-size); right, fruiting mother branch and fruiting branchlet with leaves and two fruits (most fruiting branchlets are not shown; about one-third life-size).

Types of branches produced from vegetative buds of Chinese date
Location of bud   Type of bud  Vigour Type of branch formed
permanent branch    terminal  strong  permanent extension
growth      weak  fruiting mother branch
      axillary main strong  new permanent branch
      weak  fruiting mother branch
      axillary lateral   secondary branch
secondary branch    axillary main   fruiting mother branch
      axillary lateral   fruiting branchlet
fruiting mother branch   terminal  very strong new permanent branch (only  occasionally)
      normal  extension growth of fruiting mother branch
       axillary lateral   fruiting branchlet

Origin and Domestication
Ziziphus zizyphus is thought to have originated in the middle Yellow River Valley (in the area included in the provinces of Shaanxi, Shanxi, Henan, Hebei, and Shangdong). This region contains most of the present plantings of Chinese date, and is also the centre of distribution of Z. spinosa, the species most closely related to Z. zizyphus and thought to be the wild progenitor of the cultivated clones of Z. zizyphus. Z. spinosa is distinguished from Z. zizyphus by being a smaller, more shrubby plant with more spines, and by its fruit being smaller and rounder, less sweet, and having a different texture. These differences are not always clear-cut, however, and there is considerable morphological variation within the two species. It is debatable whether Z. spinosa should be maintained as a distinct species, especially as it is not now possible to identify any plants of Z. zizyphus that are unequivocally of wild origin.

The process of domestication must have been long and gradual. Good-fruited plants would have been collected or propagated from the wild, and their spread would have been assisted by the tendency of most plants to sucker vigorously. Propagation techniques such as grafting were well-known to the early Chinese. Seed would have been planted, the good-fruited progeny kept and those with useless fruit discarded. Plants might have also escaped back into the wild. By the 6th Century, A.D. Jia Sixie in the agricultural encyclopedia Qi min yao shu (Essential Arts for the People), recorded 45 selections of jujube, and there are similar reports in subsequent texts. The American plant explorer Frank Meyer estimated that in the early years of this century there were probably 300 or 400 named clones of Chinese date, and today there are some 400-500 local cultivars. These cultivars can vary greatly in growth requirements and behaviour, and our account below is therefore a generalised description of the Chinese date; individual cultivars may differ in some respects.

Vegetative Growth
The Chinese jujube grows into a shrub or a tall, handsome, upright tree 7-15 m in height. Young plants are often headed back to encourage the formation of a flatter, wider crown. Mature trees can resemble rather stiff silver birches; they can have an attractive weeping habit accentuated by the weight of the fruit pulling the branches towards the ground.

The trunk is dark grey with narrow furrows, but on younger branches the bark is smooth and reddish brown with a distinct bloom.

The patterns of branch growth in the Chinese date are extraordinarily complex, unlike those in any other fruiting plant, and as far as we know have not previously been described in English. Probably the most confusing feature is that in each leaf axil there are two types of bud: the main bud is a ‘normal’ bud, complete with bud scales, and can survive throughout winter; the lateral bud is smaller, lacks scales, and must continue growth the season that it is formed.

Different types of branches are produced by main buds and lateral buds, and the particular type of branch formed depends on the vigour of the bud, which in turn usually depends on its position on the plant. Fig. 1 and Table 1 summarise what is known.
(a) Permanent branches. These are strong shoots which come from strong main buds. Such shoots continue growing for many years, and develop into the permanent structure of the plant. Most axillary main buds along a strongly growing shoot remain dormant, but eventually the main shoot axis becomes less vigorous, the terminal bud becomes weaker, and extension growth is stopped by the formation of a terminal fruiting mother branch (see below). Axillary main buds further down the stem then break dormancy to produce strong shoots, which ultimately develop into new permanent branches. Occasionally, weak main buds along the shoot break dormancy and produce fruiting, mother branches.

(b) Secondary branches. These are produced from strong lateral buds along the current extension growth of permanent branches. Secondary branches typically zigzag, because the direction of branch growth changes at each node. A secondary branch reaches its maximum length in its first year of life. The terminal growing point withers and dies by the end of this first year and, in successive years, distal parts of the branch tend to wither back to a node and die. Secondary branches growing from the lower part of the current growth of a permanent branch usually abscise completely at the end of the first season, but unless removed by pruning, most other secondary branches survive for many years.

During the first year of life of a secondary branch, the lateral buds at each axil grow into fruiting branchlets but the main buds in the leaf axils remain dormant until the following year, when they can produce fruiting mother branches.

(c) Fruiting mother branches. These occasionally come from weak main buds on strong shoots (permanent branches), but most are produced by main buds of secondary branches. Fruiting mother branches look rather like conifer cones; they are very compressed shoots carrying not leaves but only a spiral of scales, in the axils of which are again main buds and lateral buds. Most of these main buds remain dormant, but the lateral buds give rise in the same season to fruiting branchlets. The following year the terminal bud of the fruiting mother branch again makes very limited growth, allowing for a new whorl of up to ten fruiting branchlets. This process can continue until the fruiting mother branches are about ten years old, when they finally become non-productive. Fruiting mother branches sometimes branch or, if nutritional conditions are right (e.g. the tree is pruned back heavily), the terminal bud can shoot out to form a permanent branch.

(d) Fruiting branchlets. These are all derived from weak lateral buds, on either a secondary branch or a fruiting mother branch. It is these fruiting branchlets that actually carry the flowers and fruits. The branchlets are typically about 10 to 20 cm long and carry between 6 and 13 leaves and generally 1 to 3 fruits. The fruiting branchlets are deciduous, and may therefore be mistaken by casual observers for compound leaves; their true nature, however, is revealed by the axillary flowers and fruits. Although fruiting branchlets die in their first winter, they sometimes do not actually drop until the following spring.

Pruning methods are determined by patterns of fruiting. The best fruits are produced on fruiting branchlets coming from fruiting mother branches carried on secondary branches from permanent branches less than ten years old. One-tenth of the oldest permanent branches should be removed each year during winter pruning. When a permanent branch is pruned, the secondary branch below the cut is also pruned back to encourage the dormant axillary main bud on the permanent branch to break dormancy and form a new main shoot, which will become a replacement permanent branch. The tree can be trained to a certain shape, with or without a central leader, by training the permanent branches.

Young plants are generally spiny. The spines are modified stipules, and therefore occur at the base of the leaf stalks. They are usually in pairs of unequal length; the longer spine is straight and up to 3.5 cm long, the shorter is viciously recurved. A few cultivars have two recurved spines of the same size. As trees age they tend to produce fewer spines, and any spines that are produced are shorter and thinner and are apt to shrivel and fall. A few cultivars appear to be spineless, but this is because their spines are shorter, thinner, and softer, and drop early.

The leaves are alternate, usually 3 to 8 cm long, narrow, ovate to oblong lanceolate, with three prominent veins running from the base. The leaves tend to be leathery, smooth and glossy-green above, somewhat paler below. Leaves turn bright yellow in autumn and fall early, usually before the fruiting branches themselves fall.

Flowers
The abundant flowers are very small and insignificant, only about 0.5 cm in diameter. They occur on the fruiting branchlets in small axillary clusters of up to about half a dozen. The flowers have five sepals, five petals, five stamens opposite the petals, a bilocular ovary, and a bifurcating style. They are a not particularly appealing yellowish-green colour, but are very attractive to pollinating insects as they produce copious quantities of concentrated nectar from the nectariferous disk; they also have a sweet, fragrant scent.

Flower buds differentiate in spring. Chinese dates are therefore unlike most other temperate fruit trees such as apples, pears, or peaches in which flower buds have differentiated by the previous autumn.

Cultivars vary in the duration and intensity of flowering. Most plants have a very extended flowering season, but the period of fruit set is usually much more restricted. Several weeks may separate the first and last flowers within each axillary cluster. Furthermore, flowers in clusters near the base of a fruiting branchlet develop before those more distal on the branchlet. Early flowers often fail to set fruit because temperatures are too low; later flowers may not achieve the same size as those set earlier. Some clones will flower again if the fruits first set are lost through disease or damage. There are also clones which may flower several times during one growing season, and flowers, green (unripe) fruit, and red (ripe) fruit may be borne simultaneously on the same tree.

Although trees produce tremendous numbers of flowers, generally only 1 to 2 percent of the flowers actually set fruit. The reproductive biology of the Chinese date requires further study, but there seem to be several mechanisms to ensure cross-pollination.

• Most cultivars appear to be self-incompatible, although some can produce fruit from self-pollinated flowers or parthenocarpically. For home gardens, it is obviously an advantage to have trees that are self-compatible or that set fruit parthenocarpically. Most of the cultivars widely grown in the United States appear to be self-compatible, in that many isolated trees set heavy crops.

• The flowers are protandrous, that is, the anthers dehisce and the pollen is released as soon as the flowers open, but it is only after some hours that the stigmata become exposed through the recurving of the upper parts of the styles, and that nectar is released. This helps ensure cross  pollination.

• Opening of the flowers on an individual plant appears to be synchronised, but clones can generally be divided into two classes, those with flowers opening early in the day and those that flower 6 to 12 hours later. The actual timing seems to depend on clone and on climatic conditions. Limited studies indicate that effective cross-pollination and fruit setting requires trees of opposite flowering types. Even this, however, is not always sufficient to guarantee good yields.

Introducing beehives into the orchard during flowering is a common practice to enhance fruit set. Girdling of the trees during or just prior to full bloom is a traditional way of increasing fruit set. In orchards in northern China, where it is often very dry during spring, farmers spray the flowers with fresh water to prevent premature desiccation and withering of the styles and stigmatic surfaces. An improved technique routinely used today is to spray with 10 to 20 ppm gibberellin solutions.

Fruit Growth and Harvest
Botanically, the fruit of the Chinese date is like a drupe with a succulent flesh (pericarp) surrounding the stony endocarp. A small collar of tissue at the stalk end is derived from the nectariferous disc. The sweet whitish flesh encloses a hard two-seeded stone. The skin is thin and smooth, becoming reddish brown and wrinkled on ripening.

In China the fruits mature during September and October (i.e., late summer to early autumn). The immature fruits have a green skin, and will not ripen if picked. Fruit picked later will continue to ripen after harvest. There are three main stages in fruit maturation and the use that is to be made of the fruit determines the stage at which it is harvested.
(a) Skin whitish: at this stage fruits achieve their maximum size and the skin changes from green to greenish-white (milky green), whereas the flesh remains a pale green. Fruits at this stage of maturity can be candied.
(b) Crisp maturity: patches of the skin turn brown, so that the fruits appear spotted, and eventually the skin becomes reddish-brown; the flesh changes from green to white, but is still hard and crisp. Fruits for consumption fresh are best harvested when about half the skin has turned brown. Fruits tend to ripen unevenly

on the tree or after picking and, if they are to be eaten fresh, several harvests may be necessary. Experiments have shown that an alternative would be to harvest fruits when the skin becomes whitish and then ripen them by treatment with ethylene, if permitted.
(c) Full maturity: the skin changes to a dark red, the fruit becomes wrinkled, and the flesh is yellowish, soft, and spongy. The sugar content reaches a maximum. Fruit at this stage can be harvested for drying.

Fruit harvested at the earlier stages of maturity is usually picked by hand. Fruit that is to be dried can be left on the tree until it drops. Traditionally, Chinese dates were harvested by knocking the tree with a stick, followed by collection of fruit from the ground. Some growers in China have now adopted techniques in which trees are sprayed with ethylene-producing chemicals about two weeks before harvest. A large sheet is placed on the ground under the tree to catch fruits dislodged by vigorously shaking the trunk.

The skin of the Chinese date is relatively tough, and the fruit is easily handled or stored. Research in California has shown that it can be stored for several months at 10°C without significant loss of quality, but it is susceptible to chilling injury if held at temperatures below 2.2°C. It can also develop surface moulds if cool-stored. Dried fruit can be stored for up to a year.

Fruit Composition and Processing
The fresh fruit has a high sugar content, higher than in most other fruit, but only low titratable acidity. As a result the fruit, although pleasantly sweet, may seem insipid to some tastes, and the high dry matter content (25 to 35 percent fresh weight), mainly sugars, means that the fruit tends to be rather mealy. The dried fruit can have a remarkably high sugar content, as much as 70 to 80 percent fresh weight. Nutritionally, the single most valuable attribute of the fruit is its high concentration of vitamin C, between 400 and 1000 mg per 100 g fresh weight. This is much higher than in most other fruit: 80 to 100 times the concentrations in apples, 10 to 20 times that in citrus fruits, and 5 to 10 times that in ‘Hayward’ kiwifruit. The fruit also contains high concentrations of phenolics (responsible for the brown colour) and rutin, sometimes ascribed ‘vitamin P’ activity. In China, possibly half the fruit produced is dried, and roughly equal quantities of the remainder is eaten fresh or is processed. The red dates sometimes available in New Zealand shops are Chinese dates that have been allowed to dry after harvest, usually under cover. In China, red dates are eaten directly as such or they are incorporated into cakes or breads or other dishes. Honey dates are usually much larger fruits which have been cooked in a sugar solution and sometimes flavoured with honey. Traditionally, the surface of the entire fruit was scored with thin knives to allow the sugar syrup to penetrate the fruit, plumping it up and rendering it more succulent. The honey dates most readily available in New Zealand supermarkets have been pitted, and are a deep brown colour. Black dates are less common; they have been smoked. Small quantities of fruit are candied in syrup or preserved in spirits. Both the fruit and the seed have been used medicinally in China – the fruits are considered to be beneficial to body metabolism and the vascular system, and the seeds have sedative, properties. A variety of pharmacologically active compounds have been isolated from Ziziphus species.

Cultivation
The Chinese date is one of the toughest and most tolerant of all fruit trees, being able to withstand very poor growing conditions. It can take a remarkable amount of neglect without apparent harm,  and can survive drought, extended periods of waterlogging, and temperature extremes as low as -30°C or as high as 50°C.  It flowers at least a month after most other fruit trees, and production is therefore not usually affected by spring frosts. The toughness of the Chinese date should not, however, be exaggerated; it grows best in hot climates where, after adequate rain early in the growing season, the summer is long, hot, and dry, there is plenty of sunshine, and nights are warm. Drought may result in fruit drop, and the plant responds to appropriate irrigation with an increase in both growth and crop yield. It prefers sandy loams or lighter soils, but will grow on heavier clays and can tolerate saline, alkaline, or slightly acid soils. Vegetative growth and cropping are usually poor in areas with cool damp summers, and rain during the period of fruit maturation can cause the fruit of some cultivars to split. The adaptability of the Chinese date is shown by the range of conditions under which it grows in China. In the north, trees are found mainly in the mountains or hills, especially in stony areas or wasteland, but they are also planted on the coastal saline soils as shelter belts around narrow wheat or cotton fields. This type of dual cropping is effective because the Chinese date is slow to break dormancy in spring, and its late-developing canopy does not inhibit early growth of the crop. The trees also bear more fruit under these conditions than when growing in an orchard, probably because they get more sunshine and fresh air. Further south in China, trees can also be found growing on the banks between rice paddies. Comparatively few trees are planted out in regular orchards. Planting distances in such orchards depend on the cultivars grown, but would average within row spacings of about 4.5 to 6 m, with the rows 6 to 7.5 m apart. The Chinese date starts producing good crops at an early age. Most grafted trees bear some fruit in the season they were grafted, and in orchards of the cultivar ‘Li Zao’, yields can reach 23 tonnes per hectare only three seasons after grafting. Yields tend to be consistent, with little evidence of alternate (biennial) bearing. Such yields are exceptional, and neglected trees, as often found in many parts of China, would carry far less fruit. The Chinese date is one of the most important fruit crops in China. Apples, citrus, and pears are by far the most important, and then, in order of total production, come bananas, grapes, persimmons, pineapples, and the Chinese date. Most Chinese dates are produced in the north, in the provinces of Hebei, Shandong, Shanxi, Henan, and Shaanxi, with considerably smaller amounts from Gansu. Appreciable quantities are also produced further south in Hunan, Anhui, Hubei, and Guangxi.

Propagation
Until recently the Chinese date was propagated primarily by root suckers, since most trees sucker very readily, especially if the ground is tilled. Now, however, more and more farmers graft or bud onto seedling rootstocks. Seed of Chinese date can be used, but fruit of the closely related Z. spinosa more often contains viable seed, and these are frequently used instead. The stones are collected in the autumn, stratified over winter, and sown in a seedbed in spring. Although the stone contains two embryos, usually only one seedling develops. The seedlings can be budded in early autumn or grafted the following spring. More than 95 percent of grafts take successfully if scionwood is coated with a thin layer of wax. Chinese dates have been successfully propagated by tissue culture, but attempts to root hardwood cuttings have generally failed. 

Cultivars
There are 400 to 500 cultivars of Chinese date in China, but all are of local distribution and none is grown throughout the whole country. Cultivars selected for the north may grow well in provinces to the south but not crop satisfactorily; the converse is also true. The cultivar grown depends on the use made of the fruit. Smaller fruits are often dried, and these need to have a high sugar content when ripe. Fruits which are to be candied need not be sweet, but they should be large, and the flesh should be spongy so that it can absorb the sugar solution used in processing. Other cultivars have fruits which are best eaten fresh. There is enormous variation amongst the cultivars available. Fruits usually weigh 10 to 20 g (about the size of a cherry), but in some cultivars may weigh up to 50 g (the size of a smallish plum or apricot). Fruit shape is also variable, from mainly ovoid in many clones to ellipsoid, up to about 5 cm long. The fruits are sometimes flat or constricted, and one cultivar even has fruits shaped like a teapot. There are several stoneless cultivars with a kernel so soft that it is almost imperceptible when eaten. A particularly promising cultivar is ‘Zanhuang Dao Zao’, a triploid from Hebei – the only known triploid Chinese date – which has good-quality, large fruits weighing more than 25 g, and which is very tolerant of drought or barren soil. Several cultivars also have ornamental potential. One, ‘Tai Li Hong’ (‘Embryonic Red’), has fruits which are purple-red throughout most of the growing season; others, e.g., ‘Long Zhao Zao’ (‘Dragon’s Claw’) have peculiarly gnarled and twisted or falling branches. A national germplasm repository for Chinese date has recently been established in Shanxi Province.

The Chinese Date outside China
The Chinese date has been cultivated longest in China, its probable place of origin, but over the last several thousand years it has spread into neighbouring countries such as Korea, Vietnam, and Burma and areas formerly in Soviet Asia. By the beginning of the Christian era, it had been taken to Syria, probably along the Silk Road, the main pathway of communication and trade between China and the countries of the Mediterranean. According to Pliny, the Chinese date was then introduced from Syria to Italy and Sicily during the reign of the Emperor Augustus. Plantings subsequently spread throughout southern Europe and northern Africa. The olive-sized fruits from seedling trees are still sold in southern Europe today. In Provence, three main cultivars are grown, one with large yellow fruits which has been there for centuries and two Chinese cultivars. Similarly in North Africa the main cultivars now grown are of Chinese origin, including ‘Lang’ (‘Lang Zao’) and ‘Li’ (‘Li Zao’). The Chinese date was first introduced to the United States of America from

Europe in 1837, and separate introductions were made from Europe to California and neighbouring states by 1876. These were mainly seedlings producing only small, poor-quality fruit. During the period 1908 to 1914 the plant explorer, Frank Meyer, sent more than 80 of the best cultivars of Chinese date from China to the United States. Notable amongst the cultivars introduced were ‘Li’ and ‘Lang’. These introductions were the source of much of the material planted in different countries throughout the world. The Chinese date adapted well to conditions in the United States, particularly drier areas, and has naturalised along the Gulf Coast from Alabama to Louisiana. A few small orchards have been established, but the Chinese date is still largely limited to home backyards in the southeast and southwest, largely because of unfamiliarity with the fruit and insufficient information on how to grow the plant. Orchardists in California get good prices for their fresh fruit, up to US.$3.00 per kg retail; their best customers are Vietnamese immigrants. In Australia, the potential of the Chinese date as a fruit tree for semi-arid regions is being assessed. Cultivars have been imported from both the United States and Italy. Plants are occasionally seen in gardens in New Zealand. Since the Chinese date prefers cold winters and hot, dry summers and dislikes high humidity, suitable growing areas are probably restricted to the east coast of the North and South Islands. The potential for commercial orchards is probably limited, the fruit being supplied mainly as confectionary or to health food shops. The increasing numbers of recent immigrants from Taiwan and Hong Kong could also provide a worthwhile market for the fresh fruit. For home gardens, however, ornamental cultivars or cultivars that are parthenocarpic could be attractive but undemanding trees for drier districts. S.N. Dawes, then of Fruit Research Division, DSIR, imported seed and also scionwood of the cultivar ‘Li’ about 30 years ago. The late Dr Don McKenzie also imported some material. A few trees were planted at the Hort Research orchards at Havelock North and Clyde, and have made reasonable growth. However, the trees at Clyde flower very late in the season (January) and do not seem to have borne fruit. Trees have also been planted in Marlborough. It would be worth testing other cultivars of Chinese date in New Zealand, preferably using material from countries other than China; in its homeland, the Chinese date is attacked by a number of pests and diseases.
Acknowledgements
We thank Roger Meyer, 16531 Mt Shelly Circle, Fountain Valley, California 92708-2440 for his detailed comments on the manuscript and for allowing us to publish some of his photographs. Roger’s nursery sells many different Chinese date cultivars, including some originally introduced into the United States by Frank Meyer. We also thank W.R. Sykes (Landcare Research) for helping confirm the botanical nomenclature.
Sheryl:  Roger also marcotts his Jujube. His 267 page Jujube book for US$30 plus US$15.00 postage.  He co-wrote it with Robert Chambers. Email Roger at:  xotcfruit@yahoo.com  
.
Growers:
Phil Ciminata in WA imported material from California and China.
Ben Waddelow from South Australia also imported several varieties from Roger Meyer in California.
Di Tod has a plantation in Koorooman Vict.
Jim Dawson in Gidgegannup WA sells plants. 
There is an unknown person also selling plants on the internet in Melbourne.
Dennis Ting relates his experiences from Melbourne over the last ten years growing this fruit and the trees are between two and three metres tall now: “My two trees were the varieties “Li” and “Ta Jan” which were planted one year apart.  They came as one node grafts only with no leader or shoot.  For the first two or three years they only put out a cluster of fruiting canes from the node.  After this a strong upright shoot grew from this bud and the structure of the tree finally began! The Jujube is unusual in that the fruiting canes are deciduous and die back and drop off in winter so you are only left with the permanent structure of the tree.  Each year the number of canes arising from the nodes increases and hence your cropping potential.  The flowers form at each leaf node from November to February. The fruit ripen here from late February to mid April and go from green to lime, brown spotted to finally totally brown  the fruit tasted like a small crisp apple in texture and can be dried when the flesh goes yellow and spongy and the skin wrinkles like a normal dried date. I also know two other people growing Jujubes here in Melbourne and we all agree that “Li” is the better variety with more consistent bearing and heavier yields while “Ta Jan” bears a bit more irregularly and has lighter yields.  The
other good thing is the trees bear from an early age too.

Gibberellic Acid for Fruit Set and Seed Germination by John M. Riley

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The following information is taken from an article by John M. Riley that appeared in the 1987 CRFG Journal (vol. 19, pp. 10-12) [http://www.crfg.org/fg/1969-89/1987.html].  See the back issue information [http://www.crfg.org/fg/backissu.html] for price and ordering information. 
The Germination Process
The first stage of germination consists of ingesting water and an awakening or activation of the germ plasma. Protein components of the cells that were formed as the seed developed, became inactive as it matured.  After an uptake of water, the system is reactivated and protein synthesis resumes.  Enzymes and hormones appear and begin to digest reserve substances in the storage tissues and to translocate the digested substances in the storage tissues to the growing points of the embryo.  The sequence of the metabolic pattern than occurs during germination involves the activation of specific enzymes at the proper time and regulation of their activity.
Control is exercised by four classes of plant hormones: inhibitors such as abscissic acid which block germination; auxins which control root formation and growth; the gibberellins which regulate protein synthesis and stem elongation; and cytokinins that control organ differentiation.  Ethylene is also believed to have a control function in some plants.  Sometimes the last three controls are used together to crash through dormancy in germinating difficult seed.

Gibberellic acid (actually a group of related substances called gibberellins) was discovered as a metabolic byproduct of the fungus Gibberella fujikuroi, which causes the stems of growing rice to elongate so rapidly the plant collapsed.  Synthetic forms of gibberellic acid are available commercially. Gibberellic acid (GA) is a very potent hormone whose natural occurrence in plants controls their development.  Since GA regulates growth, applications of very low concentrations can have a profound effect.  Timing is critical: too much GA may have an opposite effect from that desired; too little may require the plant to be repeatedly treated to sustain desired levels of GA.

Effects of Gibberellic Acid
1. Overcoming dormancy.  Treatment with high concentrations of GA is effective in overcoming dormancy and causing rapid germination of seed.  Concentrations of about 2 ppm can cause tubers to sprout         earlier.
2. Premature flowering.  If a plant is sufficiently developed, premature flowering may be induced by direct application of GA to young plants.  This action is not sustained and treatment may have to be          repeated.  Formation of male flowers is generally promoted by concentrations of 10 to 200 ppm., female flowers by concentrations of 200 to 300 ppm.  Concentrations of more than 600 ppm markedly suppresses initiation of both male and female flowers.
3. Increased fruit set.  When there is difficulty with fruit set because of incomplete pollination, GA may be effectively used to increase fruit set.  The resulting fruit maybe partially or entirely seedless.  GA has increased the total yield in greenhouse tomato crops both as a result of increased fruit set and more rapid growth of the fruit.
4. Hybridizing.  Pollination within self-incompatible clones and between closely related species may some times be forced by the application of GA and cytokinin to the blooms at the time of hand pollination.
5. Increased growth.  GA applied near the terminal bud of trees may increase the rate of growth by stimulating more or less constant growth during the season.  In a Department of Agriculture experiment, the GA was applied as a 1% paste in a band around the terminal bud of trees.  Treatment was repeated three times during the summer.  Walnut tee growth was 8.5 ft. for treated trees, 1.5 ft. for untreated trees.
6. Frost protection.  Spraying fruit trees at full-blossom or when the blossoms begin to wither can offset the detrimental effects of frost.
7. Root formation.  GA inhibits the formation of roots in cuttings.
Recipes
Although GA is not listed as a “poison”, the following precautions should be observed:  Flush with water any GA that may get into the eye.  Avoid skin contact if possible.  If skin contact is suspected, wash with soap and water.  Do not re-enter an area after spraying until the GA spray is fully dry.  Avoid ingestion of GA.  The powder may be dissolved as specified below to give the desired concentration.

Insects Borne Diseases

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  • Foliar spraying with Molasses  Some nurseries are finding that weekly foliar spraying with molasses mixed 1:1000 or stronger helps prevent pests/disease.
     
  • Anthracnose in Mango  
    Anthracnose is one of the most serious diseases of mangoes in many areas where the crop is grown. The most devastating effects of anthracnose occur in areas where it rains during the mango flowering and fruit set stages. Although it appears to be less of a problem in the NT because flowering and fruit set  occur during the dry season, anthracnose can cause problems  here under certain conditions.  Mango anthracnose is caused by the fungus Colletotrichum  gloeosporioides var minor (also known by the name of its  perfect stage Glomerella cingulata var minor). Spore production by this fungus is favoured by wet or humid weather. The dispersal of these spores is particularly favoured by rain and wind. This enables spread of the disease over relatively short distances.  In areas where rain is prevalent during flowering and fruit set, anthracnose can cause destruction of the inflorescences and infection and drop of young fruit. This can obviously lead to serious losses.  Under NT conditions anthracnose tends to manifest itself later in the season. It can occur either as leaf spots or as fruit anthracnose. Occasionally anthracnose lesions are seen in young green fruit, more commonly in larger green fruit but most commonly in ripening fruit. The anthracnose fungus has the ability to produce what are known as latent infections. This means that the fungus has the ability to penetrate green fruit where it may go into a dormant state until the fruit ripens. Then the anthracnose fungus can be re-activated in response to physiological changes associated with ripening, resulting in the development of lesions with subsequent spoilage of the fruit.  SYMPTOMS  On leaves, spots form commonly towards the margins. They are tan to dark brown in colour, often with a darker border. Infection of young leaf flushes may occur when their emergence coincides with rainy weather. These infections often show up as lesions along the margins of the young bronze or pale green leaves, in which case  they are semi-circular in shape.  In very humid weather new twigs may show a dark affected area from the tip backwards, sometimes with defoliation of the young shoots.  © Northern Territory Government, 2007 Page 2 of 2  When newly formed fruit are affected the anthracnose shows as large, sunken, black lesions and the fruits so  affected drop off. Medium to large green immature fruit affected with pre-harvest anthracnose show large lesions which are glossy, black and sunken. With these fruit, splits and oozing often occurs.  The most common fruit anthracnose results from latent infections (see above) and is seen as slightly depressed grey-black areas in the skin on ripening fruit. In time the typical pink to orange spore masses (acervuli) form on this tissue.  CONTROL  Regular spraying of trees from flowering time onwards with mancozeb (at recommended label rates every 14  days) is useful to reduce the level of infection in the developing fruit. Do not use mancozeb within 14 days of harvest. If anthracnose becomes serious in green immature fruit it would be useful to give a couple of judicious sprays of prochloraz. It is important however not to overuse prochloraz as this may lead to development of resistant anthracnose strains. Copper sprays recommended for the control of mango scab will also control anthracnose with only a one day withholding period.  Post-harvest treatments are available for control of anthracnose in mango fruit. Prochloraz is used as a cold nonrecirculating  spray. Hot water dips used to control fruit flies will also control anthracnose and stem end rots. Hot benomyl dips will control anthracnose and are useful where stem end rots are a problem.  Controlling Anthracnose in Mango   by Tony Rola
    Control of Anthracnose must start when you have young flushes (new leaves). Spray the young leaves with 300 grams Copper Oxychloride combined with 2 kilos Muriate of Potash (0-0-60) dissolved in 200 litres of water. Spray at bud break and repeated 3 times at 2 weeks interval.
    During fruit production, include fungicide in the spray solution.
    After harvest, use hot water dip.
     
  • Bacterial Black Spot  Copper sprays are used on mangoes to control bacterial black spot and in the case of copper hydroxide and copper sulphate these products are also approved to control anthracnose on leaf and fruit. I am sorry but there are no alternatives to copper that are registered for use on mangoes that give effective control. In avocado for example, where copper sprays have been reduced, deleted or replaced with other ‘softer’ products sooty blotch has appeared and anthracnose has not been well controlled. If you wish to speak to me on this subject please phone 02 6626 2435 John Dirou, District Horticulturist – NSW DPI.
     
  • Disease Management brochures:  https://www.soilwealth.com.au/resources/fact-sheets/pest-and-disease-man…
     
  • Banana Bunchy Top Disease   https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/CFS-BAN-4A.pdf 
  • Confidor for pest control   Our Flat Seedless Persimmon has just finished producing this year thanks to an early spray of Confidor just after fruit set to control the Fruit Spotting Bug so we had an excellent crop. I used nylon stockings to keep fruit fly and birds from them. The stocking leg was able to be wrapped over the fruit 3 or 4 layers thick. The bats still were able to suck/eat 3 of the fruit through the stockings but this was stopped by hanging wind chimes and tinsel strings in the tree. We still had landings after that but a step ladder left erect close to the tree seemed to keep them right away. Next year I’ll try motion sensor lights; they work well except windy days set them off.
     
  • Flying Fox  My favorite store, ALDI, had rechargeable spotlights on sale at $24; 55watt halogen searchlights, the bats were like stunned mullets and the toads become totally paralyzed. The trees look very different in its light and what was very noticeable was that fruit and flowers really stand out. It’s a great way to find those hard to see fruit. It was the first time I’ve been able to see how nimble bats are through the trees once they recover. If you’ve got a strong spotlight give it a go as you will be surprised how different it all looks.
     
  • Damping off  in seedlings This can happen if you try to grow certain seedlings too late in the summer and they are not mature enough in the autumn to fight off the fungals.  Fungicides labelled for damping off will help but air circulation around the plants and refraining from overhead watering later in the day, are very important in preventing it.
     
  • Having a problem with black spots on Pawpaw? 
    Small black spots = cold
    Large black spots = anthracnose
     
  • Dieback   Several custard apple orchards have recently reported cases of branch and tree dieback. Disease isolations carried out by the Department of Agriculture and Fisheries have identified two different pathogens with a possible third pathogen currently being identified. The pathogen Lasiodiplodia was identified to be causing branch dieback and trunk cankers in one orchard in Queensland in 2015. More recently Neofusicoccum parvum was identified in the Northern Rivers causing branch dieback in one orchard. Dark necrotic lesions were found under the bark surface. A clear definition of the lesion and healthy tissue can be seen.  Neofusicoccum parvum is a fungi in the Botryosphaeriaceae family. It has a wide host range that affects a range of horticultural crops and native vegetation. Neofusicoccum parvum is described as an opportunistic pathogen that often infects stressed or damaged trees. It also has the potential to spread through pruning cuts. Neofusicoccum parvum is a relatively weak pathogen that generally only becomes a problem when trees are under environmental stress. Fungicide sprays used to control other diseases in custard apple orchards will usually keep this disease under control. The spread of Neofusicoccum parvum can be limited by sterilising pruners that have come in contact with the diseased limbs while pruning and removing affected prunings from the orchard. In severe cases of Neofusicoccum parvum, or any other pathogens causing dieback, remove affected branches by cutting back the branch until clean wood can be seen. This is sometimes called “eradicative pruning” and can greatly reduce the potential spread of pathogens causing branch dieback. Healthy shoots should develop behind the pruning cut.  Ref:  George Allen
     
  • Dieback  On Quantum there was a segment on Phytophthora in rain forests in North Queensland and the conclusion was that the disease was present only in disturbed soil that became alkaline. Maybe by maintaining an acid soil we might be able to control it in our trees.
     
  • An effective solution for fungal problems is to change the pH on the surface of the leaf. This is done by spraying one day with bi carb soda and the next with apple cider vinegar – diluted of course. This has the effect of changing the pH rapidly and fungus finds it hard to handle.
     
  • Mango Malformation Disease (MMD) Source: Biosecurity Queensland  <http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_16002.htm
    Biosecurity Queensland is investigating a suspected case of Mango Malformation Disease (MMD), a slow moving fungal disease, identified on a single property at Caboolture. Biosecurity Queensland Mark Panitz said the property had been placed under quarantine. “The property is not a commercially-managed orchard but we are taking this seriously and moving quickly to protect Queensland’s AUD 70 million [USD 62 million] mango industry,” he said. “Biosecurity Queensland is already surveying nearby properties for any evidence of MMD. This is a critical 1st step to identify where the disease is.” Mr Panitz said MMD could significantly reduce yields in mango orchards if left unmanaged. The Australian Mango Industry Association (AMIA) said MMD did not affect the quality of the fruit. Biosecurity Queensland is working closely with AMIA and the Federal Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry to ensure any potential impacts are minimised. This is a fungal disease caused by several species of Fusarium, some yet to be described. Mango is the only known host, and it is one of the most important diseases of this crop. The disease was 1st reported in India, but has subsequently been found in many other regions. However, fungal species contributing to MMD may possibly vary in different areas. Infected shoots are misshapen with shortened internodes and small stubby leaves. Inflorescences are shorter, thicker, have crowded branches and do not bear fruit. Shoot malformation is most severe on seedlings but can also seriously affect mature trees. Symptoms are thought to be a result of hormonal imbalances induced by the fungi. The epidemiology of MMD is poorly understood. It spreads very slowly, but if left unchecked, it can severely reduce yields. The main method of spread to new areas is through infected vegetative planting material; there is no evidence of spread with fruits or seeds. It is often associated with the bud mite Aceria mangiferae, but the mites have been shown to spread the disease only within a tree, not between trees. Disease management relies mainly on phytosanitary measures, removal/exclusion of inoculum, and the use of clean planting material. Australia was thought to be free of MMD until it was detected in a small number of trees on a research farm in the Northern Territory in 2008. The station was quarantined; extensive surveys in the area did not detect any additional trees with MMD symptoms, and affected trees were burnt. It remains to be clarified what the sources of both the NT and QLD infections may have been and if the 2 outbreaks are in any way connected.
     
  • Mango Spray Schedule   Bruce at Wamuran Co-Op says the spray schedule for Mango is: Copper Oxy and Mancozeb 25gm of each in 10 litres every 7 days in wet weather and 10-14 days in fine weather – stop spray a fortnight before harvest.
     
  • Mancozeb   A useful tip that came from one of our members was that spraying with Mancozeb after physical damage was effective in enabling the repair of plants and fruit. The use of copper sprays tends to accentuate the damage due to the restricting effect it puts on cell division. Funguses find it hard to multiply in the presence of copper at higher rates, but so do plant cells. Mancozeb on the other hand consists of Zinc and Manganese. Zinc is beneficial to reproduction and growth and Manganese is important in plant health. Mancozeb has been passed for use on a lot of crops in Queensland, so before using it, check if it has been passed for the plant and use as per instructions. Maybe Zinc Sulphate used as a trace element spray would also help in these circumstances. Should be a great Mango season with this dry weather, no anthracnose. If it does rain when the flowers are on don’t forget to spray. Mancozeb is good on flowers. If some of your mango trees flower very early, cold damage to the embryos will cause a lot of them to abort and fall off. Just remember that you will have to supply water and nutrient to fill the fruit from here on. If you get rain then a spray of copper-oxychloride will help defend against fungal problems, and still be reasonably environmentally friendly.
     
  • Phosphorous Acid and Phosphoric Acid are two chemical products commonly used in horticulture but they have very different uses.
    Phosphorous Acid has some fungicidal activity and is commonly used to treat Phytophthora root rot in a range of crops.
    Phosphoric Acid is used as a Phosphorous (P) fertilizer especially in hydroponic and fertigation systems because it is very soluble in water. Each product has its specific use and these are not interchangeable. The table below summarizes the properties of each product.
    References:   Brunings, AM, Datnoff, LE and Simonne, EH
    Phosphorous acid and Phosphoric acid: when all sources are not equal. University of Florida.
     
  • Phytophthora   This is a solution to a wide spread infection of many plants that often cripples the growth and production of them and for some such as Avocados results in death. Australian state governments are recommending its use to save many species of trees from extinction; WA and SA are particularly hard hit. http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/resources05/05_2089.pdf
    I was very interested in the biodynamic farming practices at Philippe dufaud’s place, particularly the drum of liquid compost being stirred. I was given a bottle of this compost tea from the barrel and this now forms the basis of a microbial/fungal tea mix I have brewing in a 65 litre bin. I did some research on the net & with what I thought I knew put together a compost tea brewing kit. A 65 litre bin, aquarium air pump, plastic tube & an aerator stone, this is now blowing bubbles through my tea. I’ve added composted cow manure, seaweed liquid, fish emulsion, compost & molasses plus some mulched Pitaya (which I had noticed was a good compost exhilarator) A witches brew that will be hard to check for bacterial & fungal action. On looking at the web again, I realized that this was big business & equipment could be very expensive & checks need to be carried out by a good laboratory. After much reading I suspect that given the right conditions your soils will be colonized naturally, a well composted, mineralized & mulched garden probably will over time end up with the right balance of flora & fauna – that’s if you don’t kill it by our normally heavy handedness, the use of pesticides, fungicides, chemical fertilizers that burn & digging & solarising the soil. I didn’t realize just how complex soils are; one author was saying there were 300 named species of earth worms in Australia & he believed there were at least twice that many. In a plot at Samford they found 23 species, the weight of bacteria in a hectare of soil is about the same as 2 cows, there are vast amounts of fungus & other living creatures that live in balance & it is they that we owe the fertility of the soil to, & also our own existence. Think twice about how you use your soil; it is the foundation to our life & much abused by our ignorance & arrogance.    Ref: George Allen 
     
  • Powdery Mildew in Mangoes  Signs to look for are when they completely lose their first flowering but put out a second flowering. You’ll usually see a white residue and the panicle flowers are brown and brittle. Some people spray neutral copper and a wetting agent when the panicles are almost ready to open and others swear by wettable sulphur and a wetting agent. Sulphur will give a good set.
    Copper seems to be best after the small fruit have formed and will avoid the black spots from anthracnose.
     
  • Powdery Mildew… Prior to spraying, the plant should have been watered for 2 days!
    Mix 1 full teaspoon of baking soda, 1 tablespoon of mineral oil, half a teaspoon of dishwashing soap or insecticidal soap, 4 litres of water.
     
  • Milk Spray Recipe for Mildew
    12 cups full cream milk to 1 cup water. You could add 1tsp bi-carb also to it.
     
  • Yates Pest Oil:  Do not use if shade temperatures exceed 32°C (35°C for citrus) or when soil is dry and plants are suffering from moisture stress. Do not pick edible fruits for 1 day after spraying. Do not spray on Glen Retreat mandarins. Do not apply for at least one month after spraying with Lime Sulphur or Sulphur.
     
  • White Oil recipe   Cup of oil, cup of water, a few lux flakes – mix in a vitamiser then dilute it 10:1 when you go to use it.
     
  • Using the Leaves of the Horseradish Tree as a fungicide – Moringa oleifera  Choose leaves that are free from disease. Wash and clean the leaves, chop up finely and mix in water, 1kg leaf to 3 ltrs water; let it stand overnight, strain then spray early morning on infested plant parts. For Anthracnose, Early blight, Fruit rot, Leaf spot. Always test the plant extract formulation on a few infested plants first before going into large scale spraying. When adding soap as an emulsifier, use a potash-based one.  Wear protective clothing while applying the extract. Wash your hands after handling the plant extract. References  * Sangatan, P.; Sangatanan, R. (2000): Organic fungicide. How to process/prepare organic fungicides. Practical guide to organic pesticides.  Technology and Livelihood Series. Busy Book Distributors, Quezon City.
     
  • Smartphone App for growers of Grapes to recognise diseases and disorders.
    https://www.adelaide.edu.au/news/news100582.html
     
  • Integrated Approach to Pest Management using Saltbush  –   Gardening Australia
    Not very long ago, this thriving market garden in Virginia, north of Adelaide, had a real problem with disease. The tomato-spotted wilt virus that lived in the weeds surrounding the farm was ruining Dino Musolino’s lettuce crops. “The virus came from the weeds – predominately the thistles – that have the virus. Then the Western Flower Thrip brought it in to the lettuces. We used to spray with chemicals. We would spray five to seven religiously through the summer months. Not only is it expensive, it’s not a great way to present product. We’d like to minimise chemicals wherever possible,” Dino explained. Five years ago, Dino got together with entomologist and botanist Glenys Wood, an expert in biological pest control. By planting some humble saltbush species around the farm in place of the weeds, both the disease and the pest that spreads it has now been all but eliminated. “There was a mix of seasonal weeds here, Sophie – weedy brassicas, thistles, mallows – that are favoured by the Western Flower Thrips. That’s a problem in the crops and when the crops are cleared, the thrips and the other pests come out and they quite happily survive and reproduce in the weeds and then go back in the crop afterwards,” said Glenys. “Previously, every time the weeds got to the stage that they were flowering and had broad enough leaves for chemicals to be effective, he’d have to spray them. It creates a bare earth buffer around your crop. It’s expensive and certainly bad for biodiversity.”
    Glenys thought that the need to spray weeds could be eliminated by planting a variety of saltbushes. “We chose saltbush because they’re deep-rooted and they grow quickly, joining up and shading the soil to eclipse the weeds. That excludes or suppresses quite a few of the pests that are likely to come in. We think that perhaps the pests don’t see the colour of the native plants. They don’t like to lay their eggs in there and the plants themselves don’t have the virus, so you’re not keeping stocks of the virus that would have been in the weeds, near your plants,” Glenys said. Glenys recommended Fragrant Saltbush (Rhagodia parabolic); Ruby Saltbush (Enchylaena tomentose); Coast Saltbush (Atriplex cinerea) and Seaberry Saltbush (Rhagodia candolleana). The plants also attract beneficial predators. “Ladybirds and lacewings, hoverflies and even predatory mites deal with the eggs of the pest mites on the crops,” she explained. Glenys also gave Dino a present so he could check on the effectiveness of the salt bush plantings – a handheld microscope. Dino’s found it useful: “We’d just look broadly at the damage before, but now we have these wonderful little tools here that allow us to have a good close look.” “So you’re becoming an entomologist too?” asked Sophie. “Well, I don’t want to take anybody’s work away, but I’m pretty good at it,” said Dino. “I notice that you’ve also got plantings under the raised racks of lettuce,” Sophie observed.
    “Well, once we found that there was a result, and a good result, we thought we would spread the plantings around the perimeter of this greenhouse and it’s proven to be working, so we’re looking to continue to plant,” Dino said. Glenys wasn’t sure if the scheme would work: “I wasn’t sure how it would influence the lettuces on top of the table, but just a quick look shows that there’s quite a few predatory spiders in there already, so it looks like it’s working so far.” The native planting project has been more successful than Dino thought possible: “We’ve reduced our spraying by about 95 percent. We’ve only come out on really rare occasions to apply that chemical because we have no need with the beneficial plants that are here. It’s a saving of cost and labour – it puts a smile on my face,” Dino finished.

Fungal and Virus Diseases

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Anthracnose

Anthracnose is the primary reason why mangoes, avocadoes and some other fruit trees fail to fruit or develop blackened fruit that drops prematurely. Anthracnose is a fungal disease that is exacerbated by rain and high humidity. During dry weather the disease is virtually absent. Application of copper based sprays immediately prior to flowering and during early fruit set and/or use of biodynamic preparations such as casuarina tea can help reduce the effects of anthracnose. Some fruit tree varieties also possess inherent resistance to anthracnose.

Black Spot on Pawpaw

Adequate nutrition is as much a tool in disease control as the use of sprays. Plants deficient in potassium, phosphorous and magnesium are more susceptible to attack by black spot and powdery mildew. Simply increasing the potassium (sulphate of potash and/or lucerne mulch), phosphorous (rock phosphate or chicken manure) and magnesium levels (Epsom salts) helps to make plants more resistant to disease. Pawpaws are most susceptible to black spot disease during the cooler months. Spraying with sulphur or copper based compounds prior to the onset of the cool weather and watering with liquid seaweed can help reduce the severity of infestations.

Citrus Melanose

This disease typically affects more mature trees or plants that have a canopy of foliage that hangs close to the ground. Mulch trees with a feeding mulch such as lucerne. This will help to prevent spores splashing up onto the foliage when it rains. Lift the lower branches so that foliage is well clear of the ground. Spray trees with copper based compounds after all fruit has been harvested, thoroughly wetting the foliage, trunk and branches. Repeat applications each year until no further evidence of disease exists. Improve general tree health with additional nutrients and water.

Damping off Fungus

This disease affects germinating seeds and young seedlings. It is transferred via water and affects the water conducting tissues of the plant. Use new seed raising mix or clean compost. Wash all pots and tools in hot, soapy water then allow to dry in the sun before use. Make sure that plants do not sit in water. There is no cure for affected plants and they should be disposed of so as not to infect neighbouring stock. Note that newly planted seedlings can appear to suffer from a similar condition, but this is typically the result of over watering or planting into a soil containing excessive amounts of fertiliser or overly rich compost and manure.

Passionfruit Virus

At the end of the growing season after production of a bountiful crop, passionfruit vines can look tired and in need of a well earned rest. In some cases, vines will show characteristic mosaic leaf yellowing that indicates presence of a virus disease. Such diseases are often present in plants from an early age, but only begin to gain the upper hand when the vine is occupied with fruit production or stressed in some way. Affected vines may continue to grow, flower and fruit in coming seasons, but will always lack vigour. Unfortunately there is no cure for virus affected plants. Given their rapid growth rate, high productivity and short lifespan, passionfruit vines are best replaced every few years. Unfortunately there is no cure for virus affected plants. Given their rapid growth rate, high productivity and short lifespan, passionfruit vines are best replaced every few years.

Authored by: Annette McFarlane
Sourced from: www.annettemcfarlane.com
Date sourced: 16/02/2013

Tree Paste

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Phil Ryan from the Brisbane Organic Growers says he has good results with this recipe below and says it is a good deterrent to just about all the insects that affect our fruit trees especially scale, aphids, borers and sap-suckers. Its main attraction is the paste’s ability to feed the tree through the pores in the bark.

Give the trunk of each tree a good brushing to remove loose bark etc.

Apply with a clean paint brush or use rubber gloves and apply by hand.

Do this in the afternoon and only to brown wood – not the green parts of the tree. 

Mix well together and use a little Maxicrop seaweed liquid to make into a rich sloppy paintable paste.

1/4 part diatomaceous earth

1/4 part powdered cow manure

1/4 part fine dry clay

1/4 part blood and bone

One cup sieved wood-ash

One cup molasses

Monolepta australis

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  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv_qmUYI4Wc   from Daleys website.
     
  • Paul Recher says that the classic method of handling monolepta when you know they are around is to make a fire and the beetles fly into it. He was told this in 1977 when he worked as nursery manager at a farm for handicapped with big avocado plantation where a few trees were getting hit hard. He then read the same thing in a book about the fire thing being used in late 1890’s early twentieth century.

Common Name: Redshouldered leaf beetleReferences: http://www.daff.qld.gov.au/26_9830.htmhttp://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1440-6055.1982.tb01777.x/pdf